All right on the Wight

As a kid I had my first family holiday in the Isle of Wight.

Too many years have passed for me to remember the details but I recall we stayed in one large room in a guesthouse in Ryde that was once a vicarage.

I fished off the pier, collected coloured sand at Alum Bay and took in the sights of Shanklin Chine and The Needles.

My long-ago family holiday was on my mind as I drove out of Ryde via Sandown and Shanklin to Ventnor and a night’s stay at the Hambrough, a seven bedroom hotel which commands wonderful sea views (especially from rooms 1 and 2) and offers the fine dining experience for which the island is gathering a formidable reputation.

The large bedrooms offer flat-screen TV with satellite, free Wi-Fi, DVD/CD player and an espresso machine. En-suite bathrooms have under-floor heating – good for winter stays – and Moulton & Brown bathroom amenities. Other welcome guestroom touches are homemade fudge and Blue Keld Yorkshire mineral water.

In fact, the room was so well equipped and comfortable that I had trouble tearing myself away from the mesmerising view of the wind-whipped waves and taking the five-minute stroll to the beach.

The Victorians called Ventnor, on the Isle of Wight’s southern tip, England’s Madeira and while that might be stretching one’s imagination a bit far, there is still something special about this small seaside town.

On the beach, hardy visitors were dipping their toes into the water or sheltering from the stiff breeze while supping pints of beer at the Spyglass Inn.

One group was eyeing the freshly caught fish at the Ventnor Haven Fishery, some of which has already been delivered to the Hambrough’s kitchens.

The Isle of Wight is seeking to create an experience for visitors that goes beyond sailing regattas, pop concerts and crab sandwiches. It has developed a Taste Trail to draw attention to the island’s leading chefs and produce.

Depending on the time of year, you might find wild sea bass from the waters around Bembridge, 12 different types of garlic or Isle of Wight Blue cheese.

The Hambrough restaurant lost its Michelin star in 2014 following the departure last year of chef Robert Thompson but new chef Darren Beevers hopes to regain the star in the 2015 Michelin guide. By most accounts, he has made a good start.

Seaside hotels have not always had a good press, but for evidence that there is a new breed of hotel out there, the Hambrough stands up to the closest scrutiny. Done well, the combination of a top-rated chef with comfortable and classy accommodation can be a very successful mix.

Declaration: Ian Jarrett ate all the homemade fudge before bedtime.