Roof of the Steppes welcomes tourists

Stunning destination – Kyzylarai -in World Top 100 Sustainable Destinations

Some 6-7 years ago one German tourist said, that Aksoran could rightly have a proud title "The roof of the steppes" and it’s now one of the World’s Top 100 Sustainable Destinations writes Vitaliy Shuptar

People come to Kyzylarai for different reasons. Some want to ascend "the roof of the steppes", some want to visit the 3000-years old Bronze Age necropolis Begazy, while others simply want to stay in a typical local guest house such as Shabanbai Bi village (the gateway to Kyzylarai).

But what all of them find at the end, no matter, what they were expecting, is the warm hospitality of local people. This was the main reason why a group of Karaganda organizations (EcoMuseum, Avalon and Nomadic Travel) supported by NABU, EC and GEF/UNDP, decided to start developing tourism here some 8 years ago.

Travel to Kyzylarai usually starts in Karaganda, the biggest city of Central Kazakhstan and its administrative centre.

No matter, how tourists are going to organize their trip, independently or using the help of a tourist company, their first stop is usually to the joint office of Avalon/Nomadic. Here, independent travelers can take a free tourist map of Kyzylarai and book a place in a guest-house, as well as gain useful travel information. Those, who prefer guided tours, can select and buy a tourist package and put themselves into the care of local professionals.

290 kilometers, which divide Shabanbai Bi from Karaganda, can be gained by a public bus or a car within 4-5 hours, but tourists should be aware that Shabanbai Bi, like many other villages in Kazakhstan, has many names, except the main and official one.

Tourists should not be confused by the fact that locals call it Shylym or Karatal, that’s quite usual in the Kazakhstani steppes. And Kyzylarai, to make things even more complicated, is not only the name of the famous mountain oasis, but also a name of the village which is situated 20 kilometers further after Shabanbai Bi.

Guest-houses in Shabanbai Bi, whose hosts are united in a partnership and well educated how to work with tourists (although inborn hospitality is an indisputable fact!), are probably one of the main selling points of Kyzylarai for tourists. Here, visitors can drink tea with hosts, can share an enormous dish of famous Kazakh beshbarmak (boiled meat with pasta and onion) reclining by dastarkhan (round low table) and sleep on korpe (handmade flock bed) afterwards.

Don’t expect to see much comfort here, as long as usually Kazakh rural houses have squat toilets outside and only small washstands with cold water inside.

Although, the last few years brought some luxury to the life of local people (and tourists), so, now some guest-houses offer the opportunity to take a hot shower and private toilets under the roof, not outside. In spite of inevitable progress, local people continue to live in their usual way, so urbanized tourists are always able to watch milking or cattle grazing, which are still an integral part of rural life.

Trekking to the 1565 meters high Aksoran peak (there are, at least, 5 main routes to reach it) is the most popular activity for tourists coming to Kyzylarai.

Two of the routes (from Torkora and Shaban places) were well marked with cairns, signs on trees and rocks in 2012-2013 and shelters were built at their starting points.

Guiding landmarks are created using local materials to minimize negative impact on the environment.

3-4 days should be enough for the first time to create an initial impression. But then, after Aksoran is conquered, Begazy is shot in sunset light and all main dishes of Kazakh cuisine are tasted, you will, definitely, want more.

Maybe a look at the Bronze Age petroglyphs in Zheltau mountains or a visit to Zhaman Kyzylarai mountains, You may want to spend more time in the mountains, trying to photograph elk or argali. You may also want to visit Kyzylarai at winter-time, to hike in snow-covered mountains, ride a horse or sledge, and visit a banya (bath-house) afterwards. Or be here during one of the local  holidays, when baiga (horserace) or kokpar (goat dragging game) are organized and become a fan of both games.

You may simply prefer to take a horse or a bicycle and ride to the steppe as far as the eye can see, spending a night in a nomadic yurt, which locals still use for special occasions. There is definitely much to do, to see and to try…