The Unmissables – Trafalgar Square and the National Gallery
by Helena Beard
The Unmissables – Coming to London, you can’t afford to miss the delights of Trafalgar Square and the National Gallery.
Founded by Parliament in 1824 and housing 700 years of art, the National Gallery is the nation’s pride and joy. And what’s more, it’s free to visit!
Growing up in South London, Trafalgar Square meant a treat to feed the pigeons (no longer allowed), then a meeting point for shopping trips with teenage friends to Covent Garden. In my 20s, Trafalgar Square was the hub of the sprawling network of night buses that would take me home to my London suburb flatshare after a night out. Now in my 50s, I have developed respect for the history of the Square and a huge affection for its statues and attractions, in particular the National Gallery.
Location: The National Gallery occupies one of the most central locations in London, presiding over the North side of Trafalgar Square. Flanked by the National Portrait Gallery, and a short walk from Leicester Square, Chinatown, Covent Garden, Theatreland, Westminster and the River Thames, there’s really no reason not to include a visit on any stay in the capital.
First Impressions: The Central Portico of the National Gallery is one of the most impressive frontages of any London building, and looks out across Trafalgar Square with Nelson’s Column with its famous lions at the centre, and the four plinths. Since 1999, the plinth directly in front of the Gallery has housed a rotating piece of contemporary art. In the past, this fourth plinth has been home to a replica of HMS Victory in a glass bottle, a sculpture of the artist, Alison Lapper, and now until September 2022, The End, the work of artist, Heather Phillipson featuring a huge creamy pudding with, on one side, a lovely red cherry with a drone on it, and the other, a fly. The drone is rigged with a camera which offers a live feed of the area and, potentially, the opportunity to spy on passing visitors. Quite some juxtaposition to the classic grandeur of the historical artwork displayed inside the neighbouring National Gallery.
Back to the National Gallery and, upon entry, you could be forgiven for being somewhat overwhelmed by choice. The collection includes works by all the famous names; Cezanne, Degas, Monet, Rembrandt, Van Gogh, Titian, Turner and many more. So where to start? Happily the signage will help you out here with three routes clearly designated, with descriptions of the highlights and the average time taken to complete each route.
Highs and lows: It is very difficult to differentiate amongst the exhibits, as art is a matter of personal taste. But for me, seeing Thomas Gainsborough’s ‘The Blue Boy’, back in the UK on loan from the United States and on display until May 2022, was my personal high. Lows: you can miss out on your favourite artists if you don’t book early. The first major Lucien Freud exhibition in 10 years will be opening in October. Don’t miss it.
Prices: General admission is free but ticketed. Exhibitions are charged and it is essential to book well in advance for the more popular ones. Book at www.nationalgallery.org.uk
For the travel trade: New group and trade tours launch this month, led by expert guides and available at preferential rates during the day and some offering exclusive access out of hours. Various language options are available, and tours will run on Tuesdays and Thursdays.
Tour operators and the travel trade are invited to contact the team at [email protected]
Where to stay: The Clermont Charing Cross is an excellent choice for central London stays and is just across the Square, at the side of Charing Cross station. Formerly the Amba Charing Cross and recently rebranded, this elegant railway hotel claims proudly on its frontage that it offers ‘Flawless comfort, thoughtfully delivered’. And indeed it does.
There are some lovely touches at the Clermont, most memorable being the gorgeous cherry blossom tree at the foot of its beautiful Victorian staircase and the splendour of the windows and chandeliers in the bar and restaurant. Beds are comfortable and prices are very reasonable for such a centrally located hotel. And the wonderful nostalgia that always permeates a railway hotel makes the whole stay even more special.
Prices from £200 per room per night. Book at www.theclermont.co.uk
Where to eat?
You are spoilt for choice in the areas around Trafalgar Square, with Covent Garden, Chinatown and SoHo on your doorstep. However, for me, one of the best choices is actually just behind the church of St Martin-in-the-Fields, the Tandoor Chop House on Adelaide Street.
This busy little restaurant is packed with ambience, and offers a simple menu focused around prime meat cuts, smoked tandoori flavours, and signature naan breads. Order a craft beer, share a few plates and enjoy a relaxed evening with the friendly staff, and don’t miss the sublime cauliflower croquettes with delicious lime pickle mayo. Supper with a drink costs around £40 per head plus service.
Go to tandoorchophouse.com to book a table.
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