‘Everything is hidden’ our Berber guide told us as we wandered the streets of Marrakech.   ‘We don’t show off our riches, we keep them inside. That is why you can’t see anything from the road.’   Morocco is full of surprises, and, as we found, many of them are secreted behind humble alleys, thick wooden doors, or tall, heavy gates. Whether you are stepping into your riad, entering a museum, or crossing the threshold of one of Morocco’s beautiful gardens, you will find all the riches on the inside. It is one of the most enchanting and memorable aspects of this fascinating country.   Morocco has been on a journey. For years, it has been entry-level Africa for the curious; the perfect place to try one’s hand at this mysterious and often, uncomfortable, continent. Morocco’s mystical brand has attracted backpackers, trekkers, weekenders, and culture seekers, keen to explore and experience its frenetic cities and wide-open spaces.   Morocco’s star is in the ascendant. Despite reopening relatively recently to international travel in February, Morocco is expecting its 2022 tourist arrivals to reach 80% of the 2019 figure, and to exceed it in 2023. The destination is emerging strongly from the pandemic, and pent-up demand, especially for meaningful and authentic travel, is delivering tourists in search of winter sun to Marrakech, Casablanca, Agadir, Fez and beyond.   I visited Morocco in November, the first real holiday taken with my (newish) partner, and a deliberate choice to take an adventure together, to pack our precious child-free week with memorable experiences, and to enjoy some pampering. For me, it was the first time to North Africa, but my partner had visited 15 years previously. We were coming from very different starting points. His memories were of lovely people, fabulous architecture and beautiful journeys, but also quite a lot of dust, craziness and street hassle. I was dreaming of the exotic; luxury riads, spa treatments, sumptuous soft furnishings, and romantic evenings. He was a bit worried I wouldn’t like it. Happily, he was wrong.   My interest in travelling to Morocco was piqued 20 years ago, when two friends returned from Essaouira raving about the perfect mix of sunshine, great food, cheap prices and an exciting cultural experience, way more interesting than that on offer from most other short haul destinations.  In 2001, I started to make plans to visit, but on 9/11 the world changed and my nerve changed with it. The arrival of two children also cut the legs off my sense of adventure for around 15 years.   But now, I was ready. Covid has delivered few positives, but it has made me less risk averse and keener to grab life’s opportunities by the throat. And, if you feel the same, Morocco is a brilliant choice.   A week is not long, so choose your itinerary wisely and consider taking an organised tour with one of the many specialist tour operators. We decided to start our journey in Marrakech but to move swiftly south to the Agafay desert, the High Atlas Mountains, then to cross west to the coast and spend a couple of nights relaxing in Essaouira.   Arriving in Marrakech’s swanky new airport, you could be forgiven for thinking you’d touched down in the Middle East. Step outside, and you’re in Africa, as the heat rises up, the sun beats down and the taxi drivers vie for attention.   Marrakech is a delight. It has changed a lot over the past 20 years or so, and, whilst the city is still a melting pot of sounds, smells and some crazy sights, there has been investment in the infrastructure and attention given to the tourist experience. The central square of Jemaa el-Fnaa retains its authentic Moroccan charm, with snake charmers, storytellers, and belly dancers, but it is now paved, and well lit.   It is surrounded by rooftop bars from which, for the price of a can of Coke, you can watch the sun set and the market come alive and, should you choose, there are pretty horse-drawn carriages to take you around the medina. The souks start at this square, and there are miles of them. Shopping in Marrakech’s souks is a surprisingly pleasant experience and not one to be concerned about. There is a degree of hassle, of course there is, but in our experience, it was friendly, never aggressive, and usually accompanied by a smile. Haggling becomes a fun game as you get used to it, and it is always possible to walk away with a quick ‘I’ll be back later’ without giving offence.   You do, however, need to accept major differences and keep an open mind. Sadly, there are still monkeys dressed up for photographs, there are hobbled donkeys, and the snakes do not look particularly ‘charmed’. I hope, in time, tourists will vote with their feet in this regard and soon the monkeys, at least, may become a thing of the past. And it is worth noting that cats and dogs (of which there were many) seemed relatively well cared for.   We were extremely well cared for, with our safety and wellbeing the priority of our hosts. At the gorgeous Dar Seven riad in the north of the medina, we were offered pre-loaded mobile phones to call for an escort home from the souks or restaurants at the end of the evening. One night, when we were completely lost in the medina, a kindly old man on a motorbike led us through several winding back streets to find our restaurant. The small tip we offered was more than worth it for our safe delivery.   The Moroccan National Tourism Office talks about the ‘living culture’ of Morocco. It is not a place of folklore. It is a place where the customs, languages and costumes continue to thrive. Whilst you can buy a jellaba (traditional kaftan) in any number of tourist shops throughout the region, you will also see them being worn by the locals. Whilst homeward bound suitcases may bulge with earthenware tagines purchased in the souks, they are also found in every kitchen and on every menu. You can pay handsomely for a private hammam experience in your luxury riad (and believe me, it’s worth every penny). But most Moroccans visit the public hammams every 7-10 days as part of their basic hygiene rituals.   For many tourists from the UK, Marrakech will be the only experience of Morocco, with weekend trips to the city growing in popularity due, largely, to the prolific low-cost flights from our regional airports. A typical itinerary for a weekend will include some pampering in your riad, shopping in the souks, an evening out at Jemaa el-Fnaa and dinner in the medina, plus a visit to the very beautiful, but very crowded, Majorelle Gardens, and Yves Saint Laurent museum next door. However, if you have a few more days, do take them. The next stage of our journey took us about 45 minutes out of Marrakech, to the Desert d’Agafay. This is a relatively new tourism product, developed around five years ago as part of a drive to encourage a greater spread of tourism benefit beyond Marrakech. It has been very successful, with quad biking, camel riding, and luxury camps strewn across the wide-open spaces of the desert. We stayed at YesWeCamps, glamping to the extreme with swimming pool, bar, restaurant and a selection of high-end bivouacs. The view across the desert as the sun rose was simply stunning.   Next stop for us was the Ourika valley and the realisation of a long-held dream to open my bedroom window to a view of the High Atlas Mountains. Home to North Africa’s highest peak at 4, 176 feet, Mount Toubkal, the snowy peaks can be admired from the rooftops of Marrakech. But to get up closer, you will need to take a drive south.   The scenery changed as we left the Agafay desert, giving way to greener fields and farmland. But this area is still suffering from four years without rain. The hopes we had harboured for a boating experience on a deep Lake Takerkoust were dashed by a very low water level and clear evidence of the climate changes which saw temperatures rise towards 50 degrees last summer.   Despite the lack of rain, water remains in the Ourika valley, streaming down from the melting peaks of the mountains, and there is a busy tourist area at the foot of the valley where small cafes and restaurants compete for business. There is also a popular trail up to the seven waterfalls of Ourika, but we chose to avoid the crowds and instead tour around the Ourika and the Asni valleys, stopping frequently to admire the Berber villages. Wild thyme grows at the sides of the roads, and small children ride between the villages, bareback on donkeys. Life seems simple and far, far away from the bustle of Marrakech.   If you don’t have time to stay overnight in Ourika, there are day trips available from Marrakech. However, if you do stay, you will be rewarded by much cheaper hotel prices, peace, and quiet, and glorious mountain views. We stayed in the Kasbah Atfel, a charming 10-room hotel built in the style of a traditional Moroccan palace. The enormous Junior Suite was priced at only €120 per night including breakfast, and the food and service was genuine, friendly, and authentic. There is even a huge swimming pool which I’m sure is a welcome relief if you are visiting during the spring or summer months.   Other attractions in the area include the quirky but serene Anima Garden. This stunning two-hectare garden was created by the Austrian artist, Andre Heller, only 12 years ago in 2010. This garden is paradise for the Instagram generation. As well as being densely planted with cacti, palms and hundreds of other exotic trees and flowers, the gardens are also full of brightly coloured sculptures by Pablo Picasso, Auguste Rodin, and Alexander Calder. There is a surprise at every turn, and the photo opportunities are exceeded only by the chances to sit and contemplate in secluded, shady nooks. Well worth a visit if you are in the area, there are also shuttles available from Marrakech.   The final stop of our holiday was the bohemian beauty of coastal Essaouira. Around a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Marrakech, this lovely walled city is well known for its laid-back vibe, strong winds, pretty medina and fresh fish. A great place to end a holiday, and heaven for keen shoppers, this little city did not disappoint. One of the highlights of Essaouira is fresh fish. Haggling over the price of my own lunch was a new experience for me, and we discussed the contents of the proposed tray of fish and seafood with absolutely no idea what we were looking at, let alone how much it ought to cost. In the end we settled on a small discount on a plate of fresh fish and prawns, which was then whisked away to be grilled on a barbecue behind the restaurant. When we questioned the absence of the pre-promised ‘seal the deal’ chips, a lively debate arose, culminating in a small boy being despatched, presumably to the local chippie, to return moments later with a packet of delicious fries, presented with a flourish.   At the other end of the scale was the Caravane Café. Typical of all Moroccan establishments, this delightful restaurant is hidden behind an unassuming door which opens up to beautiful atrium heaving with bright green banana trees and sultry jazz and surrounded by little dining rooms. Everything (including the Charlie Chaplin magician) feels very French, and the pampering starts as soon as you sink into one of the armchairs. Great wine, lovely food and attentive service make for a fabulous treat, and the ambience is second to none. Just another one of Morocco’s hidden gems. Heaven knows how many more secret doors there are, waiting to be opened.    Helena Beard travelled as a guest of the Moroccan National Tourist Office. To find out more about Morocco, go to www.visitmorocco.com  

This week’s Unmissable is the Riad Kheirredine which is consistently rated as the best place to stay in Marrakech. Helena Beard went to find out what all the fuss is about. I have wanted to visit Marrakech for more than 20 years, but world events, work commitments, and the arrival of children conspired to scupper my plans. Now I was finally on my way, I was determined to make the most of it which meant a stay at (according to one well-known review site) the number one hotel in Marrakech. And that is how my partner and I ended up at the rather wonderful Riad Kheirredine.   Location Situated in the northern part of the Medina, Riad Kheirredine is a 20-minute walk from the craziness of the main square of Jemaa el-Fna and around 10 minutes from the edge of the colourful souks of Marrakech. The riad offers an airport shuttle service which, if you stay a minimum of four nights, is free of charge. I recommend you take it. The chances of you finding the riad on your own are close to zero. Your car will drop you by the local school, and you’ll be met by one of the riad’s friendly and helpful staff, who will organise your bags and lead you through a maze of tiny streets. You will pass small stores, street sellers and dozens of cats, and dodge a number of motorbikes, before arriving at an unassuming wooden door. This process of having no idea where you are going, but putting your trust in a smiling stranger, is something you will get used to in Morocco. And then they open the door.   First Impressions I love the excitement of arriving at a new hotel, but I think I actually gasped on entering this one. Stepping over the dusky threshold, we walked into a bright green garden of banana trees, palms and exotic plants, forming the central sun-lit atrium of the first of this three-house riad. We were led into an antechamber, where we sat on white linen sofas and were served delicious mint tea alongside delicately flavoured dates and walnuts. The welcome was exquisite, the reception staff spoke perfect English, French (and probably many other languages) and we were addressed by name by everyone we encountered. I didn’t see what happened to our bags, but by this point, I didn’t much care. This kind of super service extends throughout your stay. One of my favourite touches was the provision of a free local mobile phone to all guests leaving the riad. When you want to come back from the souk and find yourself completely lost, just call the number on the phone, and one of the many bell boys will come to find you and walk you home safely. Feel your stress levels plummet.   Sleep There are 14 rooms at the Riad Kheirredine, including five deluxe bedrooms and nine suites. They also have three courtesy rooms which are used by guests with late flight departures – a welcome chance to freshen up after you have inevitably spent the morning returning to the souks for a final haggle over that wooden chess set, leather bag or silk dress that slipped through your hands the day before. The riad is owned by two Italian business partners and hence, the decor is a delightful fusion of Italian and traditional Moroccan. Sumptuous colours and dark woods are offset by bright white walls and twinkling lights. There is no hint of the chaos of the outside world. All rooms have heating and air conditioning, they are quiet, and the beds comfortable. You will sleep well here. Each room is stocked with a complimentary mini bar of soft drinks and still and sparkling water, and tea, coffee, orange juice and lemonade are offered all day at no charge. You are invited to help yourself from the bowls of fresh fruit dotted throughout the riad, and there are complimentary robes, slippers and toiletries in the bedrooms and a free laundry service.   Eat One of the most wonderful things about eating at the Riad Kheirredine is that you can choose to sit pretty much wherever you like. Sunny mornings and warm evenings on the roof terrace, or cosy winter dinners inside by the log fire. We chose to have lunch in the shade of a pergola, beside a huge double daybed normally reserved for honeymooners, allowing us to lie down between courses. A first, even for me! The riad offers three different menus: Italian, Moroccan and International, and a simple snack menu of burgers, pizza and salads.  There is also an extensive wine and cocktail list. Breakfast is a typical Moroccan spread, with eggs cooked to order, served alongside juice, local breads and pancakes, and a selection of jams and honey. We enjoyed the Moroccan set menu for dinner, with tasty vegetable dishes, soup, and a wonderful chicken tagine.   Work and Play This riad is perfect for couples. There are no children under 12 allowed, and the entire experience is focused on relaxation, romance, and indulgence. The riad is three houses joined together, giving way to a new garden atrium at every turn and the benefit of a huge, intertwined roof terrace, complete with plunge pool, sun loungers, a bar, and numerous nooks and crannies. The calls to prayer from the surrounding mosques drift across the rooftops and the sounds of the city are below. You have escaped your normal life and you know you are somewhere special. If lounging about in the sun drinking mint tea isn’t relaxing enough for you, the Riad Kheirredine offers a full menu of traditional hammam and massage treatments at its two-person spa. We opted for the gold standard ‘Royal Pack’, a two-hour hammam plus full body massage experience for two people. Coming in at €160, this was yet another indulgence, but was something I’m sure neither of us will forget. The surprisingly chatty women who met us at our bedroom door, holding robes, slippers and some rather ‘interesting’ underwear options, put us at ease and told us we would be treated like babies. And that was exactly right. The process of the hammam involves pouring hot water over the body multiple times, washing, rinsing, then scrubbing with the traditional black soap. You are cared for, cleansed and patted dry. It’s unlike any other spa treatment I’ve experienced, and it is a delight.   Highs The service levels in this riad are incredible. There are nearly 50 members of staff here dedicated to only 14 rooms; an exceptional ratio.   Lows The shuttle driver who picked us up from the airport was in an extremely bad mood and spent the journey shouting down his phone. Fortunately, he couldn’t have been more different to the the riad staff of who were without exception delightful.   Unmissable The hammam and spa experience, followed by dinner by an open fire should not be missed.   Verdict I have no hesitation in confirming that the Riad Kheirredine is worthy of its superb reputation. The global hospitality industry has been badly affected by Covid and, in some cases, service levels have been compromised, but not here. Here, you are welcomed and indulged. When I come back to Marrakech, I shall choose my travel dates based on the availability of this riad. You might like to do the same. Prices start at €160 per night for a double room including breakfast for two people. Check out the Riad Kheirredine at www.riadkheirredine.com

Morocco tourism is 80% recovered, especially with help from the UK market. The airlift is back to normal. The current rate of growth points towards a very good 2023. In order to fend off mass tourism, Morocco has been developing lesser-visited destinations, including opening new hotels. Sustainability efforts are focused on the environment, carbon neutrality, and preserving cultural identity.

 

Time seems to stand still in Morocco's world heritage sites

  Morocco's authenticity is symbolized through its nine properties recognized as World Heritage of Humanity and cultural heritage. Throughout the country, this wealth is expressed in a varied and often a festive way. The famous Moussem of Tan-Tan is held every year and gathers the nomadic tribes of the Sahara. They sing, poeticise and celebrate their art of living ; a show that cannot be overlooked ! In Sefrou, the cherry festival celebrates the natural and cultural beauty of the city. The Cherry Queen is elected, where a parade takes place. Music, dance and fantasia, but also local products await for you.   Moroccan craftsmanship is also recognized by UNESCO as an intangible heritage. The traditional famous Argan, which is he oil, used for food, medical and cosmetic purposes, is transmitted from one generation to another. Falconry is also valued as a living human heritage. Nowaydays it is valued in a fellowship and a sharing context.   Hospitality and intercultural dialogue are renowned qualities, that go along with the Mediterranean diet. Enjoy every Moroccan product in a friendly atmosphere ! The cultural space of the Jemaa El Fna square, an absolute theatre of artistic expression, is the meeting spot for inhabitants and people from elsewhere ! Charmers, speakers and musicians are awaiting for you to deliver the best in artistic performance.   The Ksar Aït Ben Haddou, near Ouarzazate, is an extraordinary place to be. The medinas of Fez, Marrakech, Tetouan and Essaouira are classified by UNESCO, as well as the historic city of Meknes and the Portuguese city of Mazagan, on the archaeological site of Volubilis, are all Roman ruins.   Rabat is the entire city that is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which is distinguished by its various historical sites : from the Kasbah of the Oudayas, to the Necropolis of Chellah, to the Hassan Mosque and the Mohammed V Mausoleum. Being a modern and traditional destination, the capital of Morocco is also known as the African Capital of Culture for 2020-2021.   The Moroccan culture is expressed in all its forms and always in a convivial way.