As a country for which devastating conflict is still a very recent memory, its rise to tourism stardom is remarkable. That is, however, until one considers its archipelago of verdant islands lapped by the turquoise Adriatic, its historic and beautiful red-roofed towns, its spectacular inland National Parks and the infectious pride Croatians have in their nation. Then its appeal to paddlers, cyclists, families, the yachting elite and the cruise ship crowds shines through. And although its most popular spots can fill to bursting in the summer, there are still plenty of places for an authentic, local escape; you just need to know where to look.
Croatia’s islands are idyllic but hopping between them is not as easy as might be imagined, with a trip back to the mainland and lengthy ferry connections the norm. So instead of tallying up boat timetables, pick one and stay there for several days, and honestly, Vis is bliss. With hiking opportunities in its green centre, kayaking in secluded coves, its own wine and a passionate slow-food movement Vis is a laid-back, local place to experience peaceful island life. Stay in a locally-run guesthouse and follow your hosts’ example with an active morning, midday siesta and a wind-down with locally-produced wine in the evening.
Even the most chilled areas of Croatia’s coastline will be busy during the summer months, a problem exacerbated in Dubrovnik and the larger islands of Hvar and Korcula by daily tidal waves of cruise ship passengers. However, it is popular for a reason and the beauty and culture of this medieval walled city cannot be overlooked. Until August 25 2014, catch the spectacular Dubrovnik festival, a celebration of world-class arts, music and dance. Slip out during the late afternoon when the cruise crowds have dispersed, the height of the summer heat is leaving the streets and the late evening light is illuminating the red rooftops for a more peaceful chance to appreciate the ‘Pearl of the Adriatic’.
If other tourists are too much to handle head inland to discover some of Croatia’s lesser-known, but no less spectacular natural areas. The turquoise Plitvice Lakes are already a draw, but less is known of the nearby Velebit Nature Park, a vast wilderness perfect for hiking, horseriding and rafting, or of the northern Risnjak National Park, just an hour from the Istrian beaches, where a mountainous micro-climate offers a cool escape from the summer coastal crowds.
To truly escape travel to Slavonia, the eastern end of the country from Zagreb onwards. This agricultural region is the real Croatia’s beating heart, a patchwork of wineries, wetlands and historic towns that was hard hit during the wars of the 1990s. Supporting community initiatives, local producers, hoteliers and restaurants here is all the more important as they don’t benefit from the tourism boost of other areas. Beautiful Zagreb itself is one of Croatia’s best-kept secrets, a capital that at the moment isn’t shouting about its qualities, yet has them in abundance. From cobbled streets to quirky museums, a stay here offers a slice of real modern Croatian life, untouched by tourism.
For a completely Croatian experience avoid the summer completely. October is a spectacular time on the islands, the grape harvests are finished, the tourists have thinned, the temperatures have mellowed, and the locals breathe a gulp of well-deserved fresh air. Earlier in the autumn is wine time, the ongoing harvest is an excellent backdrop for vineyard visits and tastings, and as this is harvest season for most producers too, restaurants and markets offer a mouth-watering array of local food. And without the time-pressures bought on during busy summers, restaurant owners and stall-holders are likely to be happy to take a moment to share stories about their specialities.
For more insider tips, and expert advice on finding authentic, local experiences in Croatia take a look at responsibletravel.com’s 2 minute travel guide at http://www.responsibletravel.com/holidays/croatia.
