Nepal has announced the resumption of climbing at Mount Everest four months after a deadly earthquake caused an avalanche at base camp and killed a further 9,000 people.
Kripasur Sherpa, Minister for Tourism said Japanese climber Nobokazu Kuriki will be the first back on the mountain on his fifth attempt to reach the summit.
Kuriki lost nine of his fingers to frostbite in a failed attempt in 2012.
It will be a solo climb but he will be supported by a team of five local guides.
"I feel very happy to give this permit for the autumn season at a time when the earthquake has caused such loss to our tourism industry," said minister Sherpa,
"This will give a positive message about Nepal internationally and I believe it will encourage other visitors to come," he added.
The tourism ministry said 14 teams had already applied for climbing permits for the autumn season.
The autumn season is considered more hazardous due to stronger winds, shorter days and lower temperatures.
Nepal’s tourism has been hit hard by the devastating April quake season and in 2014 the peak summer climbing season was shut down early due to the deaths of 16 Nepalese mountain guides in an avalanche.
